Small things add up on a chainsaw: a dull chain, a clogged air filter, a bar that isn’t getting oil. These are general, common-knowledge steps. Your owner’s manual specifies the chain, file size, tension procedure, fuel mix and storage steps for your saw, and it takes priority. Wear the protective gear it calls for.
Keep the chain sharp
- Know the signs of a dull chain. The saw throws fine dust instead of chips, pulls to one side, or has to be pushed through the cut.
- Use the right file and angle. Chains come in different pitches and gauges. The correct file size and filing angle are in the manual or on the chain packaging, and a filing guide helps hold the angle steady.
- File every cutter the same. Use the same number of strokes on each cutter so both sides cut evenly.
- Check the depth gauges. After several sharpenings, the depth gauges (rakers) may need lowering with a flat file and gauge tool, as the manual describes.
- Replace a damaged chain. Cracked, badly worn or rock-damaged cutters mean it’s time for a new chain, not another sharpening.
Bar, tension and lubrication
- Set the tension using the procedure in your manual, with the saw off and the chain cool. Recheck it as a new chain stretches.
- Clean the bar groove and oil hole so oil reaches the chain. Dress burrs on the rails with a flat file, and turn the bar over periodically for even wear if the manual suggests it.
- Check the bar oil every time you refuel. A chain that smokes or turns blue is often short on oil, too tight or dull.
- Inspect the drive sprocket when you replace a chain. A worn sprocket wears a new chain quickly.
Engine, fuel and filters
- Mix fuel at the ratio your saw’s manufacturer or your oil label specifies. The 2-stroke mix calculator gives the oil amount in ounces or milliliters.
- Clean the air filter often. Sawdust clogs it fast.
- Check the spark plug and spark arrestor screen, and keep the cooling fins and starter housing clear of sawdust.
Putting the saw away
- Follow the manual for fuel. Many say to empty the tank and run the engine until it stops, because mixed fuel doesn’t keep forever. See our fuel storage guide.
- Clean the saw. Remove the clutch cover and clear packed sawdust and oil from around the bar mount and sprocket.
- Handle the bar oil tank as the manual says. Some recommend emptying it for long storage.
- Fit the bar cover and store the saw dry and out of children’s reach.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I sharpen a chainsaw chain?
Whenever it stops throwing clean chips or has to be forced through the wood. Many users touch up the chain each time they refuel. Hitting dirt or rock dulls a chain right away.
What mix ratio does my chainsaw need?
Use the ratio in your saw’s owner’s manual or on your 2-stroke oil label. Our 2-stroke mix calculator converts that ratio into ounces or milliliters for the amount of fuel you’re mixing.
Should I store my chainsaw with fuel in it?
Follow your manual. Many recommend emptying the fuel tank and running the engine until it stops before long-term storage, because mixed fuel can go stale.
Why is my chain smoking?
Common causes are not enough bar oil, a chain that’s too tight, or a dull chain. Check the oil level, clean the oil hole and bar groove, and recheck the tension and sharpness.
AMSOIL products for chainsaws
- AMSOIL SABER Professional 100% Synthetic 2-Stroke Oil. AMSOIL says to use it “in all handheld two-stroke equipment or other applications that specify JASO FD, ISO-L-EGD or API TC,” and lists “stabilizes fuel during storage” among its highlights. The SABER section of our small engine page covers the label’s mixing directions.
- AMSOIL Semi-Synthetic Bar and Chain Oil. AMSOIL calls it “ideal for chainsaws” and says its “anti-wear additives extend the life of bar-and-chain applications.”
Product wording above is quoted or summarized from amsoil.com. Read each product’s label and data sheet for directions.
To confirm what AMSOIL lists for your saw, use AMSOIL’s official lookup guide.